Yellowknife Travel Guide

Yellowknife is a unique small town in Canada’s far north, where the northern lights dance across the sky in vivid shades of blue, green, pink and yellow. If you’re planning a Yellowknife tour, read on for everything you need to know before visiting Yellowknife. From when to go to Yellowknife to what to do in Yellowknife, I have you covered!

Yellowknife Climate and Best Time to Visit Yellowknife

The short answer: Yellowknife is an all year round destination. Yahoo!

The slightly longer answer: Okay, it’s a tad more complex than, given that Yellowknife hits -30C (-22F) or colder in winter and the northern lights aren’t visible year round. There’s two main factors to consider in deciding the best time to visit Yellowknife: activities and weather.

Activities: First, what activities do you want to do in Yellowknife? If seeing the northern lights is at the top of your list, travel to Yellowknife during the northern lights season (deets below). Want to combine the northern lights with winter activities like dog sledding and driving the Dettah Ice Road? Visit Yellowknife in winter. If you aren’t interested in the northern lights and want an outdoors lake and hiking holiday, visit Yellowknife in summer.

Weather: Secondly, as with most of Canada, the climate plays a big factor in travel planning. Can you tolerate the extreme cold (like, potentially below -30C / -22F)?! If not, then Yellowknife in winter may not be the place for you. That said, keep an open mind. I was a total hater on anything below 20 degrees celsius (yes, POSITIVE 20 degrees), but absolutely loved experiencing Canada in the winter time! Life is all about new experiences after all.

I’m somewhat obsessed with travel planning and the weather, so let’s break that down in a bit more detail.

Best Time to See the Northern Lights in Yellowknife 

Northern Canada is one of the BEST places in the world to see the northern lights, and Yellowknife has a fairly long aurora season. Unfortunately for sun worshipers, that season does not coincide with summer. (Such as it is in the far north.)

The best time to visit Yellowknife to view the aurora borealis is from August to April. May, June and July have very long daylight hours, making it difficult to spot the lights.

Within August to April, there’s debate about which month is best from a purely northern lights perspective. Many locals say that the dark depths of winter to early spring (January, February and March) are the best time to see the northern lights, as the nights are long and dark. Others vouch for September for good aurora viewing chances and warmer days. Late October to mid December can have increased cloud cover that impacts the visibility of the lights.

Yellowknife in Winter

Visit Yellowknife during winter if you want to combine excellent northern lights viewing opportunities with winter activities like dog-sledding and snow-mobiling. While March is technically spring, I’m gonna lump March into the winter category for Yellowknife, since March will still be as freezing as heck and covered in snow.

Winter days are short, nights are long, and the weather is pretty much always below freezing (ouch!). Temperatures average around -20C (-4F) in December, January and February, and warm up slightly in March. There’s only 5-6 hours daylight in January, which quickly increases to 10+ hours in March. (Just in case this feels all Negative Nelly, winter is super pretty!)

We visited Yellowknife in January, on a weekend when temperatures were hovering between -20 to -40 celsius. We chose January because we wanted to have the best chances to see the northern lights, experience the extreme winter (and extreme it was!) and partake in winter activities (dog sledding I’m looking at you). And cos our travel schedule was filling up fast and we had a free weekend!

However, my pick for the best month to visit Yellowknife would be March. In March, you’ll benefit from the peak northern lights season, winter activities (yup, there will still be snow!), slightly warmer days than winter proper, longer daylight hours and the Yellowknife snow festival.

What to Wear in Winter in Yellowknife

If you visit Yellowknife during winter, you will need some serious winter clothing for any outdoor activities. I’m talking a warm thermal or base layer (top and bottom), insulated snow pants, a warm jumper, a heavy parka, snow boots, warm socks, a thick scarf and beanie and insulated gloves.

If you don’t own these items and aren’t willing to fork out a massive investment, you can hire winter gear. Our snow gear was stuck who-knows-where in quite possibly the world’s slowest airfreight on our move from Singapore to Canada, so we hired outerwear and accessories from Backyard Tours clothing rental. They’ll set you up with some serious winter gear, so you only need to bring thermal layers and regular winter clothes. My Backyard Tours’ winter clothing hire was reasonably priced, very wam and very good quality (including a fancy Canada Goose parka!).

Yellowknife in Spring or Fall

If you want to see the northern lights without freezing your lil’ butt off and aren’t too fussed on whether you have decent snow, visit in mid-spring (April) or during fall (September to November). Note: See ‘winter’ section above for March, which is an awesome time to visit Yellowknife!

Spring and autumn temperatures are still pretty chilly (it is the far north after all!) and can fall well into the negatives at the winter sides of the seasons. Make sure you check the climate averages and latest weather forecast and pack appropriately.

Yellowknife in Summer

Visit Yellowknife in summer if you’re not fussed about seeing the northern lights (you cray cray person) and want a classic Canadian lake holiday. During summer, highs average around 20C (68F) with lows of around 10 degrees. Not exactly tropical, but definitely summer by Canadian standards.

Yellowknife’s summer is fairly short and temperatures drop off sharply come autumn. Yellowknife summer days are unbelievably long, up to 20 hours. A local colleague said that the sun never really sets in Yellowknife mid-summer, and instead skirts along the horizon. This means that you can enjoy the great outdoors and lake activities 24/7 in Yellowknife summer! (Too bad if you wanna get some shut-eye.)

If you want the chance to see the aurora during Yellowknife’s summer, try visiting in late August.

How to Get to Yellowknife and Transportation

Alternative Yellowknife transportation

Okay, now that we’ve covered the longest ‘when to visit’ in the history of the universe (told ya’ love the weather!), let’s move on to some other essentials.

Getting to Yellowknife

Yellowknife is in Northwest Territories in the far north of Canada, only 400km(ish) south of the Arctic Circle. Don’t let that put you off though! Yellowknife may only be a town of 20,000, but it’s served by a pretty reasonable airport. There are regular direct flights to Yellowknife from Edmonton and Calgary (approx. 2 hours), and occasional or seasonal direct flights from some other Canada destinations.

Yellowknife is a heck of a long way from anywhere, but if you’re up for an adventurous and loooooong road trip (like 15ish hours from Edmonton) then go for it.

Getting Around Yellowknife

Yellowknife is pretty small and easy to get around. Taxis are readily available at the airport and around town, and many tours include pick up from your accommodation.

The two main Yellowknife areas for hotels, restaurants and (non-outdoorsy) activities are the Old Town and Downtown. These two areas are only around 1km apart, so you can easily take the wai-wai express (that’s Kiwi for walking) most places.

Where to Stay in Yellowknife

Yellowknife Old Town

The Old Town is my pick for where to stay in Yellowknife. The Old Town has a lot of character and is a tourist attraction in it’s own right, with the Bush Pilot Monument lookout, lake views, cute galleries and great places to eat.

There are mainly B&Bs in the Old Town. I stayed at Bayside Bed & Breakfast (photo above) which was perfect. Bayside B&B is slap bang on the Great Slave Lake for epic views, has basic but comfy rooms mainly with private bathrooms, and serves an excellent breakfast at the Dancing Moose Cafe.

Downtown Yellowknife

If you want hotel style accommodation, stay in Downtown Yellowknife. Downtown Yellowknife isn’t as quaint as the Old Town, but is convenient for tours, museums and a range of shops and restaurants.

My Downtown Yellowknife hotel pick would have been either The Explorer Hotel or Chateau Nova Yellowknife.

Lodges

For the Harry Hardcore adventurers, there’s some awesome looking fly-in lodges outside of Yellowknife. I’m not a fisher at all and was tempted to stay at Trout Rock Lodge which has an ice fishing focus or at Blachford Lake Lodge for its remote location and natural beauty. These lodges will be my pick if I’m lucky enough to return to Yellowknife in summer!

How Long to Spend in Yellowknife

If you’re hoping to see the northern lights, most local tour Operators recommend staying in Yellowknife for at least a few nights to maximise your chances of an incredible aurora viewing.

If you stay for three nights during peak aurora season, you’ll have pretty good chances of seeing the lights. However, there’s no guarantees. We stayed in Yellowknife for 3 nights in January, and unseasonable cloud cover and blowing snow meant that we only saw glimpses of the lights on one night. (All the more reason for a return trip I say!)

If you’re in Yellowknife to hunt the aurora after dark, there’s also more than enough activities in Yellowknife to keep you busy during daylight hours. During winter, for us, three full days was about the right balance between having time to fit in all the activities and the extreme cold preventing you from being outdoors for long periods of time.

During summer, the answer may well be how long is a piece of string. If you want to explore Yellowknife, chill out on the lake and do some hiking, you could easily spend one week in Yellowknife.

Best Things to Do in Yellowknife + Yellowknife Tours

Yellowknife Activities

Strangely, all my Canadian colleagues asked why I was visiting Yellowknife, as they don’t see it as a tourist destination. Did I have friends up there they asked? Ummm, have ya heard of those pretty lights in the sky I say?! Or dog-sledding, ice-roads, a cool Old Town and interesting museums? Not that I can judge, having barely seen any of my native NZ compared to the rest of the world.

Anyhoo, the Japanese tourists and I seemed to be the only ones in the know, as there is oh so much to do in Yellowknife. Most tourists are of course drawn to Yellowknife for the northern lights, which is undoubtedly the highlight of the far north. However, I’m willing to go out on a limb here and say that Yellowknife is awesome even without the aurora!

In winter, Yellowknife turns into a veritable winter wonderland. For someone who had been in the snow only once before moving to Canada in winter (crazy right?!), I marveled at the beautiful snow, giggled in glee as I sped through the forest on the back of my dog sled, and secretly panicked on the inside as I lay down on the Dettah Ice Road.

In summer, Yellowknife is all about the massive Great Slave Lake, boating, fishing and hiking. At any time of the year, you can explore the Old Town and visit Yellowknife’s interesting museums.

Read more: It’s impossible to sum up Yellowknife’s attractions in a couple of paragraphs. Check out my dedicated post on the 10 best things to do in Yellowknife!

Yellowknife Tours

There’s some great local tour operators in Yellowknife. In fact, the highlights of my Yellowknife trip were our Yellowknife Tour with My Backyard Tours, dog-sledding with Enodah Kennels organised through Yellowknife Tours, and our northern lights tour with Sean Norman. I would 100% recommend these tour operators, and hope to return for some of the summer activities on offer.

Best Yellowknife Restaurants

Canada’s small towns tend to pack quite a punch when it comes to eating out, and are over-represented by pubs and breweries. Yellowknife is no exception. This is a pretty good thing, as I’m a massive fan of gastro-pubs, especially to spend a lazy afternoon hiding from the cold! In fact, we spent all three of our afternoons in Yellowknife in the pub … don’t judge me.

NWT Brewing Company – The Woodyard Brewhouse & Eatery

I visited the NWT Brewing Company / The Woodyard three times during my three days in Yellowknife. Yup, it’s a clear favorite!

The NWT Brewing Company is on the main road in Old Town south. Here, you’ll find the most northerly brewery in Canada, along with a pretty classic modern trendy pub, with a range of local craft beer, other drinks and delish pub grub.

I’m not usually one for souvenirs and have very few momentos of my travels, so was stoked to pick up some cool merchandise at NWT Brewing Co. Choose from a range of caps, t-shirts and tops, or take home a growler and beer glass set. (Growler = vessel to transport beer. Also known as a ‘flagon’ in NZ, at least in the 80s when I grew up and accompanied my dad to the booze shop for a flagon refill.)

Bullocks Bistro

Bullocks Bistro is a bit of a local institution in the Old Town. On the outside it’s a small log cabin, on the inside the walls and ceilings are covered with graffiti from visitors. Local colleagues warned me that I might get yelled and/or sworn at (all part of the charm!), but all I encountered were friendly staff.

Bullocks does excellent seafood, if rather pricey, and serves alcohol. Defo worth a visit if you’re happy to fork out $30 for fish + chips.

Dancing Moose Cafe

Dancing Moose Cafe is a cosy cafe on the Great Slave Lake (Old Town) which serves tasty breakfast and lunch.

Happily for me, Dancing Moose Cafe was located in our Bed & Breakfast and breakie was included as part of the rate. Try the omelettes or porridge if you need to warm up!

Traders Grill, Explorer Hotel

Traders Grill at the Explorer Hotel in Downtown Yellowknife is a great option for hiding from the frigid cold for a few drinks and a pub style meal. We camped out at Traders Grill on some comfy leather loungers in front of a cosy fireplace for a couple of hours before our pick up for the Aurora Village.

Wildcat Cafe

Wildcat Cafe is another Yellowknife Old Town institution which came highly recommended by locals. Unfortunately for us, Wildcat Cafe is seasonal, and was closed for the winter when we visited. Yet another reason to return for a Yellowknife summer vacation!

Bonus Yellowknife Tips

Aurora Max

The first thing we did when we landed in Yellowknife was jump onto the Aurora Max website. The website has the aurora forecast for the next few days, along with a live ‘aurora cam’ to check out the current northern lights conditions from the warmth of your car or room. You can also watch a high-speed replay of the previous night’s activity (or inactivity as it may be), which can make for some pretty incredible viewing!

Prepare for Late Nights

Now, the young bucks out there who are used to nights of partying can just skip right on past this to the next tip. Those on the wrong side of 30 (me!) who prefer to be in bed before midnight (me again! …actually 10pm in my case) be warned.

The northern lights can appear any time it’s dark, but peak hours are usually either side of midnight. If you’re out on an aurora viewing tour, expect to return to your hotel around 1am to 3am. Best to schedule any day-time activities for late morning or the afternoon!

We watched the aurora max replay from the night before we arrived, and peak activity was around 3am when the sky burst alight. When we saw an (admittedly weak) aurora, it was around 10-11pm. Other locals said that if you’re lucky you may see the aurora from the plane from 5pm in winter. We were not lucky.

Friendly Locals

This shouldn’t come as a surprise to those who know Canadians, but Yellowknife locals are super-duper friendly. My husband struck up a conversation with some locals at the pub as he was interested in the cribbage game they were playing. A few conversations later, at the end of the night, they INSISTED that we took their unique cribbage board home. Great momento of our trip, and a reminder of the kind people out there!

Keen to visit Yellowknife? Read my guide on the best things to do in Yellowknife during your Yellowknife tour!

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